With Love from India

Unveiling the brand’s latest campaign shot in Israel and marking a creative Indo-Israel collaboration like no other, Sahil Kochhar says that the new age of Indian couture is here.

A freshly brewed romantic couture saga, the Sahil Kochhar atelier is a testament to past glory and nostalgia, multi-faceted art and craft traditions of India and an integration of all that is young, new and futuristic in the Indian couture-scape today. With several exciting milestones dotting the dream journey of the brand, here’s how Kochhar defines couture, the construct of his muse and creativity. Read the edited excerpts to get a glimpse of this versatile creator, style icon and couture changemaker.

“It is definitely time for Indian couture to shine in both domestic and global markets. With every passing year, the face of Indian couture is also evolving.”

SAHIL KOCHHAR

(Edited excerpts)

FL: You launched your eponymous label in 2014 after a tenure at Rohit Bal. What have been the highlights of the journey so far?

SK: The journey of Sahil Kochhar has been a roller-coaster ride. Ever since its launch in 2014, every milestone, small or big, has been close to my heart. They say first things are always special, and our first-ever collection was inspired by the age-old craft of Bengal. The Sholapith (Shola or the Indian cork) is definitely a highlight of this journey. Our nominations at the Woolmark Prize, prestigious exhibitions at Paris Fashion Week, and our stint as costume partners in the Ayushmann Khurrana starrer movie are a few moments we cherish. Our couture show was a magical event that left everyone spellbound; it was a milestone for the brand and laid the foundation for our first flagship couture store in Delhi. Our latest collection ‘Yachad’ shot in Israel is a path-breaking milestone for us. It was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Collaborating with the Embassy of Israel and shooting with talents from Israel and India has been a great learning experience. The fact that we could represent India and Indian fashion globally makes this campaign even more special.

FL: Your creations have been variously described as “fresh”, “romantic”, and exuding an “old-world charm”. Could you decode these?

SK: The keywords described here perfectly define the ethos of our brand. With “fresh”, our aim at Sahil Kochhar has always been to keep experimenting and taking risks to create something that has not been done before. Whether it is our surface embroideries or our varied fashion presentations, we always try to offer fresh perspectives in our design language. I feel the deeper essence of the brand is “romantic”. The pastel palettes marry motifs derived from nature. There is a sense of romanticism in every Sahil Kochhar ensemble, from the way it’s draped, to the tiny details and the flow of the artwork, et al. Sahil Kochhar is known for its signature blend of new and old-world charm. There is an underlying flavour of the past while creating the everlasting pieces reminiscent of the bygone era.

FL: Where do you draw your creative instincts and inspiration from?

SK: For years, my love for nature and my observations around me, have been a great source of inspiration. From age-old crafts to art and artists across the world, India itself has been a place that has inspired artists since ages. The diverse craft forms from numerous states and terrains have left a great impact on my mind, leading to various collections with similar adaptations. Artists such as Ayumi Takahashi and her magical world of abstract florals has been a great food for thought for me. We did a collection inspired by her work, which is my favourite till date. If on one hand, we gave an ode to the old masters’ paintings and decadent history with French lace artworks in our collection ‘Zehen’, on the other hand, we played with Kirigami (the Japanese art of folding paper), Bengal’s Sholapith, the white Sangemarmar patthar/ stone (the art of marble carvings) etc., serving as eclectic inspiration for our designs.

FL: Is there a Sahil Kochhar fashion facet that is yet to be told or explored considering you are a style icon in your own right?

SK: Well, there are many fashion facets that are waiting to be explored, so I am eager to explore them in the journey ahead. It won’t be wrong to say that we are just getting started. From our clothes to our campaigns and our stores, we want to experiment and explore, go all-out and crazy, and push the envelope when it comes to fashion and the way it is presented.

FL: While the story behind the banana palm logo is well-known, what are the sentiments echoed through the design language of the brand?

SK: Sahil Kochhar as a brand is deeply rooted in its ethos. The ‘banana palm’ has been a sacred symbol in India since ages. It signifies new beginnings, prosperity and growth. Indian art history is filled with numerous references of the ‘Banana Palm’, from Raja Ravi Verma’s paintings to Mughal miniature paintings. Several sacred scriptures refer to the motif. Various versions and styles of the motif are mentioned in our history. The palm is rooted in tradition yet it evokes tropical vibes in a new-age context that blends beautifully with the ethos of the meeting of the new and the old, which is the design language of our brand.

FL: What is your takeaway from the Woolmark nomination?

SK: Woolmark has been a great experience. The platform and the names associated with Woolmark bring with it a world of organic learning. My takeaway from it would definitely be to stop following what everyone else is doing, not shy away from voicing your ideas and exploring! There is so much happening across the globe, why should we stay behind?

FL: How would you describe your foray and progression into couture?

SK: It was an organic progression for the brand into couture. When we launched our label, we specifically specialised in luxury-pret targeting the ‘bridge-to-luxury’ segment. Our signature surfaces and experimental textures and textiles defined us. Our customers reached out to us and started asking us to customise looks for them for their big day. The buyers ordered couture ensembles looking at our embroideries and surfaces. There was a demand in the market for something new, and we enjoyed catering to that. Hence, we launched our couture show in the most magnificent way possible followed by our much-loved couture store.

FL: Could you demystify global/Indian couture and its evolving value/appeal in today’s world?

SK: It is definitely time for Indian couture to shine in both domestic and global markets. With every passing year, the face of Indian couture is also evolving. With India being a traditionalist country, the great Indian heritage couture is not going anywhere; it will stay and will be cherished as a classic forever. But the new India is ready to accept its new couture with open arms. The sensibilities are different and tastes are evolving. The newer generation is looking for a fresh language and a style statement that defines them. This unique style quotient is the appeal in the world today. Moreover, not just India, the global industry is looking at us for all the right reasons. Our textures, surfaces and embroideries have been appreciated and loved across the world, and our age-old art and crafts will continue to command their spotlight today.

FL: You have said that “luxury lies in micro-details” of garments. Could you take us through some of the key pieces and stunning details of Sahil Kochhar’s garments?

SK: At Sahil Kochhar, we firmly believe that the devil is in the details! From our intricately layered embroideries to the attention to detail in the fabrics and textiles we use for applique, everything is thought through. Our signature pipings that are handcrafted in-house cannot be found anywhere else. Equally unique are the minute cuts and style lines in our patterns, the designed linings and the way our edgings are done as well as our layered couture tailoring. Every detail at Sahil Kochhar holds a special place in our process and makes the brand what it is today.

FL: Who is the couture audience in India and how is your brand catering to them?

SK: The couture audience today is a very evolved audience. With changing times, they are also ready to accept the newer ways and are open to experiments. Our brand caters to the new generation of brides and grooms, the ones who believe in themselves and their own sense of style. They don’t follow any trends and live the life they desire. This is the audience who we love designing for. We don’t want to mould our muse into something that they are not; we dress them in a way that they are!

As Told to: Aishwariya Chattoraj