Payal Singhal
Designer Focused Designer Interviews Fashion Interview Jan / Feb / Mar 2024 Magazine

A Symphony In Motion

Payal Singhal’s new demi-couture collection takes centre stage as she unveils ‘Fashion in Motion’; an ode to her 25 years of bohemian elegance.

Amidst the grand celebration of a quarter-century of exceptional creativity, Payal Singhal proudly unveils the Fashion in Motion collection, an ode to renewal and resilience. As her eponymous label marks its 25th anniversary, Payal Singhal ventures into the realm of demi-couture in association with Coach, setting a new milestone in her illustrious career. Drawing inspiration from the eternal cycle of rebirth, this collection reverberates with the symbolic essence of blossoming flowers, symbolising the enduring spirit that emerges even in challenging times.

In this extraordinary collection, Payal Singhal pushes the boundaries of her renowned Indian occasion wear aesthetic. Infused with a refined bohemian elegance, Fashion in Motion exudes playful yet classic charm, introducing a spectrum of gypsy undertones into the brand’s signature style.

Sharara Set
Ruffle Organza Sharara Set

FL: What inspired the theme and concept behind your 25th-anniversary collection – Fashion in Motion – and how does it mark a new chapter in your design journey?

PS: Fashion in Motion is a new chapter in our journey as it is our first demi-couture collection that evolves from our unique sensibility in occasion wear. It takes inspiration from the cyclical rebirth seen in the transition from winter to spring, and captures this sentiment through floral symbolism – a nod to life’s perpetual renewal.

FL: Your signature bohemian aesthetic is evident in your recent collection. Could you elaborate on how this aesthetic has evolved over the years and what it represents for you as a designer?

PS: Over time, our design language has shifted from fusion and contemporary styles to a more bohemian and playful approach. Now, I am enjoying the creative process, exploring various crafts, and having fun experimenting with my craft.

FL: The pastel palette dominated your recent collection. How do these summer-centric colours and wanderlust-evoking styles resonate with your vision for modern fashion?

PS: Spring calls for fresh colours, and we were excited to work with a lighter palette, perfectly complementing the flower-inspired theme of the collection. The pastel hues served as the ideal backdrop for this lineup.

Payal Singhal
Tissue Saree Set

FL: Your collection challenged conventional fabrics by incorporating crystal mesh, soft georgettes, diaphanous organzas, and lame. What inspired this departure from traditional materials, and how do these fabric choices align with your design philosophy?

PS: I am currently in a phase of experimentation with various fabrics, deconstructing classic silhouettes and exploring fashion. Hence, we used diverse materials to challenge conventional concepts.

FL: The infusion of intricate zardozi and pearl embellishments in the easy-to-wear pieces added a distinct charm. Could you share the creative process behind balancing wearability with detailed embellishments?

PS: Our aim is to create new, unique, and exciting wearable pieces without compromising the essence of the concept. We enjoy pushing boundaries by incorporating traditional crafts like zardozi into new materials and designs.

FL: Supermodel Ujjwala Raut closing the show in a bandeau top and cut-work skirt seemed to be a significant moment. Could you delve into the significance of that particular ensemble and its representation in the collection?

PS: Ujjwala symbolises a concept in herself. Having her close the show in a golden bandeau top and cutout skirt was a defining moment for the brand, marking a progression to the next level of couture.

FL: This collection marks your debut into demi-couture. How does this segment align with your design ethos, and what sets this collection apart from your previous work?

PS: Our ethos focuses on creating limited pieces per style, produced mostly on demand, to avoid overproduction. This demi-couture line aligns with our philosophy of mindful, desired, and made-to-order clothing, setting it apart from our earlier works.

Payal Singhal
Mesh Embroidered Skirt Set

FL: Over your illustrious career, how have your design choices and creative process evolved, particularly in this milestone collection compared to your earlier work?

PS: My design process and understanding of the craft has evolved, but the brand’s DNA remains constant, creating contemporary Indian wear. Each collection is a step forward, motivating us to continually improve and innovate.

FL: What have been the defining moments in the last 25 years that shaped you as a designer?

PS: There are numerous defining moments – from winning the ‘Shopper’s Stop Designer of the Year Award’ at 15, starting my brand at 22, to now celebrating 25 years. Dressing celebrities globally and cultivating a vast community of PS girls, have all been defining moments in my career.

FL: Can you walk us through your creative process, from conceptualisation to the final product?

PS: My process is quite chaotic. It begins with an idea, followed by mood boards to create a colour palette, textures, embroideries and prints. We design silhouettes and bring everything together.

FL: How does your cultural background influence your designs, and how do you infuse traditional elements into contemporary fashion?

PS: My cultural background heavily influences my design process. I cherish Indian fabrics, textures, and embroideries, but my exposure to international trends shapes the final design, aiming for global relatability.

Payal Singhal
Embroidered Lehenga Set

FL: How do you perceive the evolution of fashion trends, and how do you balance staying relevant while maintaining your unique style?

PS: Fashion trends are cyclical, but our focus has always been on creating modern Indian clothing infused with traditional crafts. Staying true to this has helped us remain relevant while maintaining our distinct style.

FL: Sustainability and Ethical Fashion: In an era where sustainability is becoming increasingly important, how do you integrate eco-friendly practices into your brand’s ethos?

PS: Our brand has always cared about our environmental footprint. We avoid overproduction, minimise wastage, recycle our waste, and have even developed a new fabric using fabric scraps. These practices are ingrained in our brand’s DNA.

As Payal Singhal’s brand journey continues to evolve, Fashion in Motion emerges as a beacon of creativity and enduring legacy. From the vibrant pastel hues serving as a canvas for exquisite detailing to the reimagination of traditional craftsmanship in a contemporary narrative, this collection encapsulates the brand’s evolution over 25 illustrious years. Payal Singhal’s commitment to offering India modern solutions while infusing cultural richness remains unparalleled, with custom signature prints becoming synonymous with her label’s identity. As this milestone collection paves the way for a new chapter in the brand’s narrative, it stands as a testament to Payal Singhal’s relentless pursuit of innovation and timeless elegance in the world of fashion.

” My design process and understanding of the craft has evolved, but the brand’s DNA remains constant, creating contemporary Indian wear. “


PAYAL SINGHAL

Text by : Sanskriti Sharma

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