If there is one silhouette that plays a fundamental role in the dichotomy of Indian fashion, it is the choli or blouse. Whether it is a lehenga or a saree, types of blouses have been an integral part of ethnic attires for centuries. This piece of clothing which is merely a fitted top has a rather rich history of evolution through the ages, and has become an icon of style on its own merit.
A Brief History
In ancient India, the practice of wearing blouses was not prevalent, evident from many paintings and relics. Due to the hot climate, diaphanous textiles were draped on bare skin instead of putting on fitted pieces. However, as the country became vulnerable to invaders, cross-cultural influences resulted in dynamic social and economic changes. During the British Raj, the Western concept of blouses was introduced in the Indian subcontinent to offer women more dignified ways to cover their upper body. Though not essentially an Indian approach, different types of blouses – also known as chemises – became increasingly popular. More comfortable and stylised designs with frills and bows were created as more women started to adorn elaborate blouses, especially the ones belonging to elite families. Looking back, the most fashionable styles at the time included high-collars with statement puff sleeves. The length of the earliest blouses extended till right above the hip, but with time, it gradually shortened to the upper waist.
The Bollywood Effect
It is no surprise that Bollywood has been a major game changer when it comes to defining fashion trends. From Nargis Dutt’s close-neck blouses with exaggerated sleeves to Dimple Kapadia’s polka-dotted front-tie top, and from Raveena Tandon’s yellow frill-sleeved blouse in Tip Tip Barsa Pani to Sridevi’s simple monotone blouses paired with chiffon sarees – Indian cinema has taken this simple silhouette to new heights, and today’s designers are keeping up with it just fine!
So if you want to get the perfect types of blouses tailored for your wardrobe, here is a lowdown of the most classic types of necklines that have stood the test of time, and will help you carry every look with utmost panache.
1. Boat Neck
Simple and suave, the ‘bateau’ or boat neck was originally inspired by the necklines seen on sailor suits. Globally renowned designer Coco Chanel then popularised it in the 1930s, after which the trend gradually touched the Indian fashionscape, with prominent actresses like Saira Banu and Mumtaz flaunting them. This style is characterised by a wide neckline that sits right below the collarbone and extends from one shoulder to the other. If your personal style is modest and elegant, boat neck blouses are perfect for your closet. We suggest skipping necklaces and going for statement earrings to stand out in this style.
Credits: @Saira Banu Khan On Instagram
2. Plunging V-Neck
If you are seeking for a neckline that is perfect for broad shoulders, look no further! A bold yet quintessential plunging V-neck blouse is all you need to make a head-turning statement. Widely popularised by acclaimed designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, V-neck blouse designs are extremely flattering and yet super easy to instruct your tailor! With its fuss-free clean lines, V-neck blouses can also be easily experimented with when designing the back. Either go for a closed-up design or an equally deep back with a dainty dori tie-up. This style looks equally great with or without sleeves, making it a crowd favourite. The perfect neck depth for a plunging V-neck is anywhere from eight to nine inches; however, it can be customised as per your taste. Opt for a choker necklace and simple stud earrings when accessorising a V-Neck blouse to make the best of the plunging neckline.
Sabyasachi 
Torani
3. Halter Neck
Halter neck blouses are as stylish as they are iconic. Essentially, a halter neck is a sleeveless pattern that runs at a slanting angle from the underarms and goes around the neck. A blouse of this style can either have a racer back or be backless. If you love sporting sleeveless styles, this type of blouse neckline is ideal for you, as it exposes the shoulders pleasantly. Halter neck blouses are especially great for summers. This style is also flatteringly flexible as it can be tailored with either a closed or plunging neckline. One of the most popular halter neck blouses were sported by Karisma Kapoor in the 90s and Rani Mukherjee in the movie Kabhi Alvida Na Kehna.
Sanya Gulati 
Priyanka Raajiv
4. Closed Round-Neck
In the world of timeless blouse designs, the closed round-neck style remains as the golden standard! Approved by celebrities, royalty and designers alike, round-neck blouses are a must-have in your ethnic wardrobe. If your saree is lightweight and minimal, opt for different types of threadwork on the blouse. An all-over work blouse works great with sarees with an ornate border and solid body. But if you are not a fan of heavy embroideries, go for a solid colour fabric and add visual interest to it with the help of contrast piping. When getting a closed round-neck blouse stitched, you can also go for a stylised back, adding a twist to the overall look of this simple silhouette.
Credits: @Samantharuthprabhuoffl on Instagram
Sabyasachi
5. Off-the-Shoulder
Off-the-shoulder necklines have been one of the mainstay trends for quite some time now. Also known as the ‘Bardot’ neckline – named after actress Brigitte Bardot who popularised the style in the 1950s – it has a rather rich history dating back to the Regency and Victorian era. With time, off-shoulder necklines that offer a fair bit of skin show trickled down to the Indian markets in the western wear section. It is rather recent that it became a part of contemporary ethnic wear, with designers incorporating this type of neckline in their creations, whether with a lehenga or a pre-stitched saree. In fact, this regal neckline design is also a great option for new-age brides who want to add a pinch of fun to their traditional wardrobe. When accessorising an off-the-shoulder blouse, pick statement necklaces. But in case you want to flaunt your collarbones, just go for heavy statement earrings to ace the look.
Adi By Aditya Khandelwl 
Embroidered Lehenga From Seema Gujral
6. Sweetheart Neckline
This neckline gets its name for resembling the shape of the top curves of a heart. It is a flattering cut accentuating one’s décolletage. This pattern also looks flawless on both broad and narrow shoulders, making it ideal for all body types. The sweetheart neckline blouse is a particular favourite among brides as it gives ample space for layering necklaces. Variations of the sweetheart neckline can be seen in the form of thin strap, bralette-style blouses or attached with full or three-quarter sleeves. If you like plunging necklines, the sweetheart neckline blouse is all set to be your favourite!
Purple Lehenga From Vvani by Vani Vats 
Chanderi Blouse From Torani
It goes without saying that a blouse is the defining factor in any ethnic look that can make or break an outfit! Hence, investing in different blouse types with well-tailored necklines will make it easier for you to restyle and repurpose them with several attires. Although the current market is filled with new-age designs, it is best to go for time-honoured cuts that will never go out of style. While brands like Torani, Ri Ritu Kumar, Raw Mango and Pranay Baidya offer exceptional designs tailored from classic textiles and threadworks, other labels like 431-88 by Shweta Kapur and Rimzim Dadu take the blouse to another level.
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