Today, the moment a sleekly draped saree with a cinched waist and a risqué slit is spotted, we know it is designed by none other than Shweta Kapur. The pre-draped saree, or as the designer calls it, the ‘fuss-free saree’ has become a signature of her brand 431-88 that dresses the woman of today – chic, intelligent and always on the go. However, this major hit of a silhouette was not always a crowd favourite because of its edgy design. When Kapur had first made it amidst a personal fashion crisis, the onlookers went gaga over the contemporary saree look. But when the saree was introduced as a part of the label, the clientele took a fair bit of time to adjust to the innovative drape as it was nothing like the sarees our mothers and grandmothers would wear. It was during Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2017 that the fuss-free saree skyrocketed. Ever since, it has been donned by many famed personalities like Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, Konkona Sen Sharma, Sobhita Dhulipala, Neha Dhupia and Shilpa Shetty Kundra. Beyond the saree, 431-88 is also known for classy draped skirts, fun fringes and smart separates that give wearers creative freedom to create their own looks. In a candid tête-à-tête with the Delhi-based designer, we delved into the brand’s global design ethos that is changing the Indian prêt wear segment – one saree at a time.
FL: Shweta, could you share the inspiring story behind the inception of 431-88, your distinguished Indian luxury womenswear label?
SK: I think, 431-88 was always there in some part of me and with time it eventually emerged to demand its own identity. As a child, I was always fascinated with the world of fashion, and had made up my mind to be a part of the industry ever since I was in the ninth grade. So there were no backup plans from the start. Though, at the time, I didn’t know I wanted my own label, I knew this industry was where I belonged. Each of my summer holidays were spent doing some or the other job in fashion. Naturally, I acquired in-depth experiences across several job roles, but when I finished my University studies in London, that is when the seeds of 431-88’s inception were sown into my mind. Although I got some job offers, nothing appealed to me in terms of remuneration, so I decided to come back to India and saw a gap in the market for the kind of clothes that I wanted to make. My aesthetic was always focused on ease and simplicity. I wanted to make effortless contemporary wear for women on the go, who have a global outlook. My journey began with making clothes for confident modern women who needed hassle-free outfits to put on at the last minute – and that is how 431-88 came into being.
FL: 431-88 has created a niche in the luxury prêt wear market in India, what motivated you to focus on creating such effortless silhouettes that are now preferred by women of all age groups?
SK: I don’t know about the niche but we always wanted something effortless and mindless. It had to be for women-on-the- go, who do not have dedicated time to get ready before heading out. We wanted to cater to them and the fact that they might not have hours to get ready, and they wanted something quick to throw on, kind of fuss-free, doesn’t need ironing or hefty maintenance. We make clothes that are so flexible, you can just throw them in a suitcase and carry it with you without a single crease on them. You can wear it day in and day out, on multiple occasions by styling with different pieces. Each time you re-wear and re-style our separates, you get a whole different look. This is the reason why 431-88 has always focused on selling separate hero pieces than complete ensembles. This way, each wearer gets to give our pieces their own personality and vocabulary.
FL: A signature of your label is undoubtedly the ready-to-wear sarees that feature a modern spin on the traditional Indian silhouette. Can you take us through the design & thought process while you created your first pre-stitched saree?
SK: The fuss-free saree or pre-draped saree basically came from the fact that I always run late and never have enough time to get ready. So when it was my friend’s wedding, as usual, I had not figured out my clothes. I wanted to wear an easy yet sensuous saree, which would be different from what my mother wore. My approach towards the silhouette was unique, as I wanted to wear a saree with a contemporary twist. So while I was senselessly experimenting in my studio, I thought of draping my own version of the saree, and I think it looked good on me. Later, at the Sangeet event, a lot of women admired the outfit, after which I seriously considered making it a part of 431-88. Initially, it was not done with the purpose of
selling; it was something I made for myself, but after it garnered a lot of attention and compliments. I realised the silhouette had solid potential.
The interesting fact about it is that it is loved by all age groups. There was a lot of resistance towards it at first because, unlike the traditional six-yard drape, this one has a fair bit of leg show. The older clientele did not receive this well, but with changing times, the need for practical clothing grew. As a result, our fuss-free pre-draped saree became a crowd favourite due to its easy, mindless nature and statement look.
FL: Can you talk a bit about your latest prêt wear collection?
SK: Our most recent ready-to-wear collection talks about power. At 431-88 we dedicate a theme to each year, which gives us internal motivation. The year 2024 is the year of power for us, and in the latest prêt line-up we decided to explore mainly three things – what is power, how do we contain power and how do we give it away. We have explored this concept through a lot of interesting silhouettes, and a special mention goes out to our oversized suits that have done really well. They are formal yet sultry, and feature impeccable tailoring. Then there are our brand’s signature skirts.
I personally don’t consider my designs to be avant-garde; rather the correct way to define them would be simple yet statement.
I am really thrilled about the textures and colours we have used this time, as they are very different from what we normally do and I am excited to see the response on it.
FL: 431-88 is known for using innovative silhouettes, textures and fabrics – How would you describe your design aesthetic? Name one piece that is close to your heart.
SK: I personally don’t consider my designs to be avant-garde; rather the correct way to define them would be simple yet statement. We like to drape fabrics really close to the body and tailor them in ways which give them a flattering shape, making the wearer look and feel amazing. Whenever we are designing anything, our focus is on making the person wearing it look their best. And when it comes to choosing my favourite silhouette, it has to be the skirt. It is easy and we have a lot of fun draping it around in different ways to create interesting looks. It is really fascinating how a simple tuck or twist can really change the silhouette and change the whole design. We also play around with various shades which include a lot of pop colours. Recently, we started experimenting with ombre palettes which received a great response. This time we have also included eye-catching embroideries that go well with the colours used and pull the whole look together.
FL: In an industry that is rapidly moving with one trend at a time, how do you find your ground and stick to your brand ethos?
SK: I think the era of trends is really over. Consumers are embracing individuality now more than ever, and it is all about personal style. Our brand ethos is also similar; we do what we do rather than chasing seasonal trends. We focus on the people who we dress and their needs are of foremost priority. Over the span of eleven years, we have just stuck to our tribe who have also been our avid supporters. For us, it has always been about staying true to our voice and being authentic in our approach. For me, it is that simple.
FL: Designers often find inspiration in various sources. What are some of the critical influences or inspirations that shape the creative direction of 431-88?
SK: I often find inspiration in everyday living, and one of my biggest inspirations is nature. I think nature is one of the best designers; the colours, patterns, forms and movements present in nature makes me think of fluid fabrics and easy-breezy silhouettes. All these small things that surround us have always been a very strong part of all our inspiration boards.
FL: The fashion industry is witnessing a shift towards sustainable and ethical practices. Can you name a few measures 431-88 takes in order to align with these principles?
SK: Fashion is one of the most contaminating industries, so more brands
are approaching eco-friendly practices today. While we can not make a global impact alone, we can do our best to contribute to the bigger picture. We ensure that if you buy something from us, it lasts ten years or more. We do not make pieces that will fade after three washes. One can buy a pure cotton shirt, but if it has to be discarded after a couple of washes, it is not sustainable, even if the fabric is organic. For us, investing in quality fabrics and making sure they have a long shelf life are of topmost priority. When working with a time-honoured silhouette like the saree, it can be challenging to re-interpret its iconic status. But with fluid fabrics and pop colours, Shweta Kapur has mastered the no-brainer iteration of the saree that meets the needs of today’s women. Convenient yet sensuous, Kapur’s signature drapes continue to charm new-age fashion enthusiasts who want an element of culture with a modern look. Whether you need an outfit for bridesmaid duties or to attend a meeting, 431-88 by Shweta Kapur has you covered with pieces that can be styled for years to come.
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