In conversation with designers Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, constructive voices in the evolving space of Indian menswear.
In the second half of the transitional decade called the ’90s, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna founded their eponymous label in New Delhi. The brand story goes that what started as a ready-to-wear apparel line for men soon earned the distinguishing identity of prêt menswear in India, a novelty back in time.
Today, the brand is well-known for creating a chic grammar of pret Western wear for Gen X, millennials, and Gen Z consumers, both men and women. In 2018, the designers branched into couture and launched their first-ever Indian wear collection. Navigating almost two and a half decades in the business of fashion, the Delhi-based duo made their India Couture Week (ICW) debut with ‘Alchemize’ in 2021. An offering for “brides” and “grooms”, ‘Alchemize’ was hardly a conventional offering of lehengas and sherwanis. With the collection sticking to the brand’s sequin-bathed cocktail glamour, ‘Alchemize’ screamed embellishments and surface ornamentation. Elevating the routine dinner jacket, the menswear range offered embroidered tuxedo sets with metallic fringed sleeves and velvet lapels.
From a profusion of architectural forms to contemporary art, the well-constructed clothes reflect the brand’s signature of bespoke tailoring and surface ornamentation bathed in sequins, crystals and stones. What also stands out is the emphasis on metallic embroideries, often in muted hues, taking one through the lanes of Indian craftsmanship.
First Look caught up with the designers to discuss the big trends and influences that would be shaping menswear in the future as well as the disruptions that have already introduced new taste, and how the designers have been at the forefront of design innovation in menswear. From gender fluidity to a stress on self-expression and individuality, to an irrepressible urge to dress like a global citizen while retaining elements of one’s roots, here’s what’s driving contemporary menswear.
Edited excerpts
How would you describe the evolution of menswear in India? Could you tell us some of the biggest shifts in fashion and culture in the last decade that have shaped and influenced evolving consumer demand and taste in menswear?
Fashion today has become more about individual expression. While conformity is still valued, being distinct is as well. Now more than ever, especially due to social media, fashion has become a form of self-expression. Through the last decade, people are realising that clothing is a special tool that they can use to stand out from each other.
Who is the Rohit + Rahul groom and what does he prefer to wear?
The Rohit + Rahul groom knows what he wants for his wedding. It has to be understated yet chic. He doesn’t believe in heavy embroideries yet happens to add Indian elements in a contemporary style. This season, the Rohit + Rahul man will be seen in our newly introduced colour palette of jewelled tones.
Could you decode the “cool guy” look at Rohit + Rahul?
The “cool guy” look at Rohit + Rahul is about looking effortless. The major contradiction in fashion is the desire to stay on trend while being unique and, in our opinion, the “cool guy” look is one where you can have a bit of both.
“Resort wear in cheerful colours, linen, silks and cottons, effortless silhouettes and key travel pieces are going to be a part of our 2022 edit.”
ROHIT GANDHI AND RAHUL KHANNA
“The ‘cool guy’ look at Rohit + Rahul is about looking effortless.”
ROHIT GANDHI AND RAHUL KHANNA
As a brand, we have always used traditional embroidery techniques to create contemporary designs. Intricately hand-done embroideries but in abstract, minimalistic patterns and colours on deconstructed sherwanis and bandhgalas has been our forte, and by doing that we have been able to appeal to an audience who wants to wear Indian silhouettes but in a modern and unique way.
Who and what do you take inspiration from when it comes to design?
Inspiration can strike anytime and anywhere. Modern art and architecture has always influenced us. In the past, our collections have been inspired by the architectural lines of Zaha Hadid, the abstractness of Jakson Pollock, the colours of the contemporary Indian artist George Martin.
Talking about travel as a big inspiration in your collections, what are some of the influences from around the world that you might have introduced in your destination collections for men?
Travel has always been important for us, some of our best ideas have come to us while we have been travelling. Our collection for summer is inspired by one of our trips to the Greek islands. The combination of blue and white is heavily used in our prints on long resort shirts and linen kurtas.
What are some of the must-have accessories that a modern man must carry depending on the occasion?
Accessories can completely change an outfit. We have recently introduced a footwear line. Shoes with studs and crystals add a glamorous touch when worn with our tuxedos. This season, we have also created a beautiful range of printed scarves in luxurious silks. They are a great addition for the modern man to add to their wardrobe as they are versatile and can be paired with many outfits. We have a wide range of accessories that include cufflinks, ties, pocket squares, bows and scarves.
Between occasion wear and Indian wear, how do you differentiate the genres or segments in menswear?
Indian wear is mostly worn during festivals. For this season, our festive collection consists of jewel-coloured kurtas and waist-jackets hand embroidered with silk threads or beads. These can be paired together or worn separately. Occasion wear is worn for special occasions like weddings, anniversaries, receptions. This year our collection of tuxedos and bandhgalas are made in lush velvets and super soft wools. They are opulently hand embroidered with crystals and beads. A lot of attention has been paid to details like satin trimmed lapels, jewelled buttons and printed linings.
Do men wear runway looks in real life?
I think we have always emphasised and taken a conscious decision of only showcasing wearable looks on the runway. It is always amazing for us to see how our clients style our pieces in their own unique way. The runway collection also serves as an inspiration for young fashion enthusiasts to experiment with styling.
Have you nodded at gender fluidity in your menswear collections – if yes, how?
Yes, we have. We’ve always had androgynous pieces as a part of our collections. We have often styled constructed men’s blazers as women’s dresses. Recently, we have also come up with a line of long shirts and kurtas for men to wear with churidars or pants and for women to wear with a belt as dresses.
What is the Rohit + Rahul menswear edit for 2022 going to offer in terms of looks, silhouettes, colours, cuts and textures?
2022 is going to be the year of celebrations. Our 2022 collection is inspired by “Carnivals”. Multicoloured pieces in cheerful tones of reds, pinks and aquas. Easy pieces that can be layered, mixed and matched with each other are key. Hand-made textures with silk threads are the main elements in every piece.
What is the future of menswear and what are some of the biggest disruptions we may expect to see in this segment?
After the pandemic the world is ready to explore. People are now more open to experimenting with trends. Resort wear in bright cheerful colours, natural fabrics like linen, silks and cottons, easy effortless silhouettes and key travel pieces are going to be a part of our 2022 edit.
Text by: Priyanka Swami
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