Vivek Karunakaran’s Thangam is a Masterclass in Reimagining Traditions

At Lakmē Fashion Week 2026, Chennai-based designer Vivek Karunakaran showcased his coveted collection, Thangam that literally translates to gold in Tamil and Malayalam. This integral element of South Indian culture was the inspiration behind Karunakaran’s lineup featuring local textiles, crafts and silhouettes that are as intricately traditional as edgy.

 FL: Thangam is deeply cultural – how did you approach translating something so symbolic into clothing without reducing it to ornamentation?

VK: When I conceptualised Thangam, it was never about replicating gold as a visual device – it was all about interpreting its meaning and reimagining it. In our culture, gold carries memory, emotion and lineage. I approached it as a feeling rather than a finish. So instead of overt embellishment, we’ve worked with suggestions – through tone, texture and detail. The idea was to let the garments hold the weight of gold, not just reflect its shine – to be able to subtly say the story through textile and detailing.

FL: Gold is often associated with spectacle – what drew you to explore its quieter, more intimate side?

VK: I’ve always been drawn to what lies beneath the obvious. There is something so beautiful about mystery and the inquisitiveness that is a result of the mystery. Gold, for me, is most powerful in its quietest moments – the heirloom passed down, the subtle glint in everyday life. There’s an intimacy to it that often gets overshadowed by grandeur. This collection was about bringing that intimacy forward, allowing gold to feel personal – almost introspective.

FL: How do you balance familiarity and reinvention when working with silhouettes that are culturally loaded?

VK: I think it really begins with respect. These silhouettes come with history and I think it’s very important to understand their context before attempting to reimagine them. Once that foundation is clear, reimagining becomes about nuance – proportion, layering, fabric, texture, styling. It’s not about disrupting for the sake of it, but about evolving them in a way that still feels authentic and relevant.

FL: South Indian textiles are often underrepresented in mainstream fashion conversations – was this collection also about shifting that narrative?

VK: Absolutely; can’t agree more. In fact, this has become my mission. 

There’s an incredible depth to South Indian textiles; their craftsmanship, history, restraint. With Thangam, it felt important to bring that into focus, not as a statement, but as a natural extension of who we are. In fact this journey started with IDAM, (the previous collection) and the intent continues to appear through many more collections to follow. If we are able to shift the narrative even slightly towards a more inclusive and nuanced understanding of Indian textiles, I think it’s beautiful. 

FL: How do you see Indian menswear evolving in terms of cultural storytelling over the next few seasons?

VK: I think we’re moving towards a more self-aware space. With everything that’s happening around us, I believe there’s a growing confidence in telling stories that are deeply personal and rooted, rather than borrowed or imposed. Menswear, especially, is beginning to embrace emotion and identity in a more layered way. Going forward, I see a deeper engagement with craft, culture and individuality – where storytelling isn’t surface-level, but embedded into the garment itself.