Kartik Research, the New Delhi-based label founded by Kartik Kumra, is rapidly establishing itself on the global luxury stage, and reshaping international perceptions of contemporary Indian design. As the first India-based label to feature on the official calendars of Paris Fashion Week 2025, and most recently spotted on New York City Mayor Zohran Mamdani, the brand continues to stand out for its quiet conviction and uncompromising authenticity.
Marking its presence on the Paris runways for the second time, Kartik Research unveiled Raag, a collection deeply inspired by 1970s Indian archival textiles. Drawing from the legacy of artisanal craftsmanship rooted in Ahmedabad, the assemblage reimagined age-old textiles through a modern lens – where vintage artistry met relaxed, street-style sartorialism. The collection featured a total of 36 looks – 30 men and 6 women, subtly signalling the house’s foray into womenswear.
Earthy hues and timeless neutrals anchored the collection. From kantha-embroidered tuxedo jackets and barn coats traced with delicate floral vines to oversized pistachio linen suits, the silhouettes felt both nostalgic and refreshingly modern. Hand-embroidered paisley motifs, Palampore patchwork overcoats, block-printed blazers and flight jackets, and indigo-dyed patchwork trousers formed the tactile backbone of the presentation – each piece echoing a reverence for craft that is synonymous with the brand.
The aesthetics of the show wasn’t all the designer had to offer, though – it also had a powerful message. Addressing the recent 50% U.S. tariff on Indian exports, which threatens the livelihoods of nearly 300 craftspeople, the label used its Paris platform to spotlight the urgency of preserving manual artistry in an era driven by Western demand cycles. The collection became a call to cherish inherited crafts, honour slow processes, and safeguard the human hands behind fashion.
This is what makes homegrown designers like Kartik Research truly compelling. No matter how global the stage, the roots remain firmly intact. Raag is a celebration of Indian artistry – one that doesn’t dilute its essence for global validation, but instead redefines it. By giving centuries-old techniques a modern voice, Kartik Research isn’t just presenting fashion – it’s reshaping how India is seen, felt, and respected on the world’s most influential runways.
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