As evening settled over Mumbai on 20th August, Galeries Lafayette was transformed into something far removed from its usual retail rhythm. The space took on the intimacy of a dimly lit Parisian salon, with jazz, movement and theatrical touches setting the mood for Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna’s presentation of Noir Botanica. Rather than a conventional runway, the evening unfolded as an intimate, after-dark experience, bringing guests close to the clothes and allowing the collection’s intricate surfaces, sculptural silhouettes and meticulous craftsmanship to take centre stage.
Drawing from the signature RGRK language, Noir Botanica explored the nocturnal side of nature through a palette of black, charcoal, oxidised silver, gunmetal and chalk white, punctuated by unexpected shades of olive and moss. Velvet, silk, chiffon and cashmere wool met molten textures, zardozi, hand-thread embroidery, handcrafted lace and metallic detailing, creating a tension between softness and structure, fluidity and precision. The result? A collection that leaves you wanting more.
To understand how the designers leave us in awe year after year, we spoke to Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna about the making of the collection, the world behind its presentation, and the craft at its core.
FL :Noir Botanica was presented as a world after dark, where fashion, music and theatre came together. What was the story you wanted this evening to tell, and how did that vision shape the way the collection was presented?
RGRK: With Noir Botanica, we wanted to tell the story of RGRK as an Indian label that has always had a distinctly international outlook, while remaining deeply rooted in its own craft and identity. For almost three decades, we have developed a strong language around evening wear, surface, silhouette and drama, and this collection was an expression of that evolution. Galeries Lafayette felt like the perfect platform to bring that world to life as a space where heritage and modernity naturally coexist. That vision shaped the presentation itself; rather than simply showcasing the clothes, we created an after-dark experience where music, theatre, movement and atmosphere came together to reflect the sophistication, craft and theatricality that have always been intrinsic to the brand.
FL: You’ve called Noir Botanica a return to the essence of RGRK and to the simple act of making clothes. After years of building elaborate fashion worlds, what inspired this return to the fundamentals of your craft?
RGRK: Over the years, we have built elaborate worlds around our collections, and those worlds have been an important part of our language. This process gave us an opportunity to return back to the silhouette, proportion, fabric, texture and craftsmanship of it all. In many ways, it felt like returning to the studio; to the process of developing surfaces, experimenting with techniques and seeing how a garment comes alive on the body. That simplicity is not about doing less; it is about allowing the craft to speak more clearly.
“We wanted the emotion to come from the making of the garment rather than from an excess of elements around it.”
FL: Your signature molten textures take on a new dimension here, set against velvet, silk, chiffon and cashmere wool. What role does texture play in creating the sense of movement, drama and sensuality that runs through the collection?
RGRK: Velvet absorbs light, silk reflects it, chiffon creates movement and cashmere wool introduces a certain softness and depth. When these materials come together with the more sculptural and molten surfaces, the garment constantly shifts between fluidity and structure. That contrast creates much of the sensuality in the collection. Rather than relying on overt ornamentation, we wanted the drama to reveal itself through movement, touch and the way the surfaces interact with light.
FL: Craft is central to the collection, from zardozi, hand-thread embroidery and handcrafted laceto laser cutting, embossing and metallic detailing. How do you find new ways to push the language of craftsmanship while keeping it distinctly RGRK?
RGRK: For us, pushing craftsmanship is about taking techniques that are inherently RGRK and finding new ways to make them feel unexpected. In Noir Botanica, we took our signature cording beyond the garment, using it to create accessories and sculptural elements, and experimented with combining it with metal beads to give it a new character. We approached the collection in the same way across embroidery, zardozi, lace and metallic detailing – evolving familiar techniques through new applications and material combinations, while keeping the hand of the craft at the heart of the RGRK language.
“Noir Botanica gave us an opportunity to return to the silhouette, proportion, fabric, texture and craftsmanship of it all.”
FL: The showcase at Galeries Lafayette drew on the intimacy of jazz and the glamour of 1930s nightlife. What was it about that era’s mood of mystery, decadence and after-dark glamour that felt relevant to Noir Botanica today?
RGRK: There is something very compelling about the idea of nightlife in the 1930s. It was glamorous, but there was also a sense of mystery and intimacy to it; a world of dimly lit rooms, music, movement and people coming together after dark. We were drawn to that atmosphere rather than trying to recreate the era literally.
It also felt relevant because Noir Botanica itself is about contrasts: light and shadow, organic forms and architecture, fragility and strength, preservation and transformation. The mood of that period gave us a beautiful framework for exploring those tensions. The jazz influence brought another layer of spontaneity and rhythm to the presentation. It allowed the collection to feel alive rather than static.
“Vijay has always had a very natural connection with the RGRK world.”
FL: Vijay Varma closed the evening in a deep mossy-olive look. What made him the perfect final note to the Noir Botanica story, and what did you hope that final look would leave the audience with?
RGRK: Vijay has always had a very natural connection with the RGRK world. There is a certain intensity and individuality to him that allows a garment to retain its character while still becoming something personal. He has been a muse for us in many ways, and his presence at the end of Noir Botanica felt instinctive.
The olive look was also a subtle return to the botanical language at the heart of the collection. After moving through the darker, more nocturnal palette and the many textures and surfaces of the evening, we wanted the finale to feel grounded yet striking. More than anything, we wanted the final image to leave a lingering impression rather than feel like a conventional conclusion. Vijay brought that sense of quiet confidence and mystery to the look.
