It’s no secret that Dhruv Kapoor is one of the most influential designers to come out of India. Time and again, Kapoor has showcased his vision of India and its timeless craftsmanship through his remarkable menswear designs. This year, the designer forayed into womenswear, debuting his unique creations at Milan Fashion Week.
Titled Foundations & Futures, Kapoor’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection was a confluence of garments that were historically tucked away in the shadows of modesty and shame. Think underwear, petticoats, and vests as the central elements of an impressive lineup. Innerwear was transformed into statement outerwear as models strutted down the sand-covered runway in petticoats featuring pleats reminiscent of sarees, kuchcha-style shorts with exaggerated drawstrings, dismantled bandhgalas, and vests reimagined as edgy jackets.
Kapoor’s starting point was deceptively simple, featuring five Indian archetypal garments that drove his creative process: a kurta shirt-tunic, a bandhgala jacket, briefs, a petticoat, and a square-neck vest. These classic pieces, found in most Indian wardrobes, served as the foundation for the 40 looks showcased on the runway.
The creative maven’s distinctive flair for embroidery was evident across most silhouettes, including tank top-style minidresses covered in beadwork and petticoats reconstructed as pleated skirts featuring floral motifs. While his love for streetwear took a backseat this season, it remained alive through striking juxtapositions of prints – floral embroidery over checks, block print-style patterns on denim, and Jaipur pottery motifs.
With a new vertical the designer refers to as Kapoor 2.0, he is redirecting his design language toward sophisticated silhouettes with a youthful soul. Although cultural elements have always been a part of Kapoor’s design DNA, this new shift reflects designs that honour heritage, but not without a twist uniquely his own.
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