Weaving Beneath The Surface with Vaishali S

From Paris Haute Couture to Milan Fashion Week and now back home on the iconic steps of Mumbai’s Asiatic Library, Vaishali S has consistently proven herself to be a storyteller deeply rooted in Indian heritage.

The creative visionary recently marked the quadranscentennial of her eponymous couture label with her latest collection, Beneath the Surface, staged at the illustrious Asiatic Society of Mumbai. Located at the heart of the city and constantly animated by pedestrians and visitors, the venue made the show all the more compelling and accessible.“This meant a lot in my mission to spread the beauty of handlooms across people. It [The Asiatic Society] was founded to spread the heritage and culture of India – again, very aligned with my mission of preserving and reviving the Indian handloom”, said the designer. This moment for Vaishali  marked a passage of the baton, where Indian couture – handwoven, homegrown, and wholly made in India – claims its rightful place in Bombay’s iconic squares.

A diver herself, Vaishali’s silver jubilee collection became a rhythmic ode to the oceans – with sculptural silhouettes mirroring the ebb and flow of waves, and the intricate geometry of coral reefs.
Instead of introducing newer techniques and forms, the designer revisited some of her signature cording textures, abstract forms and fluid pleats as a tribute to her 25 years of couture excellence.
Profoundly moved by her diving experiences, she believed her emotions had seamlessly translated into the garments, leading the team to photograph the collection underwater to fully capture its spirit.

Marking another epochal event at the fashion show was her debut menswear collection. The designer believes that men are often drawn to fine handwork and precious fabrics, but lack of options and resources pushes them toward safer choices. “I had been contemplating menswear for a while, but I was waiting for the right moment – that spark that would burst the bubble.” True to her risk-taking spirit, she chose Khadi as the foundation of her menswear line too, lending the collection a compelling depth, and making it all the more captivating.

Her milestones on international fashion platforms such as Paris Haute Couture Week and Milan Fashion Week have played a defining role in shaping her creative voice. From conscious choice of models, hair and makeup, and styling to nuanced storytelling and decision-making, these global experiences reinforced her belief in her design philosophy. “They gave me the self-assurance that even as an outlier, bringing design – not just texture – into Indian heritage fabrics is the right path to both global and domestic recognition,” she reflects.
Each of Vaishali’s collections is anchored in a journey of self-discovery. With her global experiences, she realised that the authenticity of intricate craftsmanship and age-old techniques is somewhere lost in the foreign regions and it is precisely this absence that fuels their reverence for Indian textiles. “It is a step India must take too – shifting from viewing handmade products as valueless to recognising them as the utmost luxury, and a treasure of which we are the custodians.”

While optimistic about the future of handloom couture, she stresses the need for greater awareness, especially among younger generations, who engage with its value when represented by mainstream designers. Beyond aesthetics, she highlights handloom as one of the most sustainable textiles, supporting thousands of weaving families and aligning naturally with the ethical values shaping the future of fashion. As her brand’s success increases beyond borders, Vaishali focuses on reinforcing the growing global interest in handwoven fabrics back at her homeland too.