In conversation with Sunil Sethi, chairman, Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), on the exponential growth of a reimagined menswear segment as he decodes the new dynamics.
(Edited excerpts)
FL: Why did you think it was about time to bring back a fashion week dedicated to men’s fashion?
SS: The men’s fashion scene is exploding and has been seeing an exponential growth because it is not a saturated space. Earlier, we had an event which was discontinued, and this was the opportune time to restart it. The beauty of this segment is that it has a huge potential as men may be smart shoppers but they always look for investment pieces, which have longevity. This changing direction makes designers look at silhouettes offering versatility and multifunctional usage.
FL: How did the venue-Aguad Port and Jail Complex, Sinquerim, Goa-resonate with the show?
SS: Creating a ramp in the middle of the Arabian Sea is a feat not many have been able to achieve till today. It was a unique showcase soaked in history, as the venue is a heritage site with an unmistakable cultural ethos that lent the showcase an edge. The designers and the crew were ferried by luxury boats and the entire spectrum came alive with the glow of the sun, while the sea added an unmistakable sheen to the runway.
FL: The show featured some of India’s finest menswear designers. Was there any common interwoven theme informed by a larger artistic context, which the designers offered to connoisseurs and consumers of fashion?
SS: Thematically and conceptually, they were given a carte blanche to create the mood for what menswear is currently going through-a metamorphosis. There is an embracing of prints, colours, embroideries and embellishments like never before. Most menswear brands preferred to go trend-agnostic and channel a more classic, seasonless appeal. But, some wanted only a youthful flavour-whether it was through the organza hoodies or the ‘nose-art’ inspired by American bombers on crisp jackets-each designer gave his discerning customer a taste of newness keeping traditional crafts in focus. It was a bridge between conventional wisdom and modern intellectualism.
FL: How would you describe the transformation of the Indian menswear segment?
SS: The most interesting part is the customer, who is open to experimentation, and willing to abandon stripes and suits for joggers and sweatshirts. The pandemic has upturned the set dress codes and introduced a stylish casualness to a man’s wardrobe. Some call it slouchy; some prefer to give it a more relevant moniker by terming it as oversized and androgynous. The dynamics is moving towards sustainability with recycled denims as well as creating something afresh out of discarded waste.
FL: Going forward, what innovations are we going to see on the conceptualisation, production and presentation of fashion shows?
SS: As fashion joins hands with technology and innovation, each passing season brings with it ambitious productions replete with intricate craftsmanship, dazzling installations, laser-light design, live crooners and bespoke soundtracks. The idea is to widen the horizon and reach out to a global techno-centric audience using virtual reality, live streaming and real-time feeds, and transform traditional fashion shows into a more inclusive experience.
RESHAPING MASCULINITIES
The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) initiated the men’s fashion week, titled HSBC FDCI India Men’s Weekend blended by Chivas Glassware, in Goa, on January 14, 2023. Aguad Port and Jail Complex, Sinquerim, Goa-a heritage structure that pays tribute to the freedom struggle-served as the venue for the HSBC FDCI India Men’s Weekend show.
Swirls of Drama
The Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna collection is an oeuvre of the label’s signature designs with a hint of exquisite embellishments. Inspired by Western designs and techniques, the collection features fringed accents with structured patterns accentuated by cut bead crystals swaying down the skin to embrace the secrecy behind every silhouette.
“Speaking of the USP of their India Men’s Weekend 2023, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna tell First Look, “With an avant-garde twist, the menswear looks showcase a bolder and experimental vision of the RGRK man. With the richness of the classic colour palette of silver, white and black, this collection redefines the point where performance, art and fashion intersect.”
ROHIT GANDHI and RAHUL KHANNA
In Beach We Trust
Carefree was the code when models in bare torsos strutted the ramp in style to showcase Rohit Bal’s well-fitted denims. The beaded necklaces were the cool accoutrements of the beach-friendly collection. With this showcase, the celebrated designer was back on the runway after a hiatus of two years. Making a case for moody modernism, the label’s signature florals popping against a sophisticated black base and paired with fluorescent-shaded trousers elevate the collection to creative luxury.
Candy Crush
Famed for his well-tailored suits, Ashish N Soni showcased candy-coloured suits paired with sneakers for a sporty edge at the India Men’s Weekend 2023. A refreshing twist to the humdrum menswear palette, the creations signal an embracing of beautiful camaraderie, brighter aesthetics and razor-sharp silhouettes.
Spinning Innovation
In keeping with the design house’s signature clean and contemporary silhouettes, Rajesh Pratap Singh showcased well-crafted coordinates in handwoven fabrics punctuated with metal threads. Lending a fresh twist to formals, Singh seems to be freeing men’s formals from the tried-and-tested formula of drab, principled and boring with subtle and nuanced notes that serve modernity with a hint of ornate glamour and restrained edge.
A Suspension of Disbelief
With florals adorning his creations for the India Men’s Weekend 2023 as well, Varun Bahl-known as the “couturier of flowers”-expressed his language of romance in a range of bomber jackets with ‘suspender’ detailing and multi-pocket utility trousers with peekaboo style.
“Speaking of the significance and future of men’s fashion week, Varun Bahl tells First Look, “Men’s fashion weeks have always been significant, but now, as the men of our country have grown more conscious of their own fashion choices, designers have started experimenting more when it comes to menswear, giving men’s fashion weeks a separate and fresh audience of their own. This will definitely prove to be a step up for the menswear industry as today’s men are more and more into experimental fashion.”
VARUN BAHL
God of Graphic
With their India Men’s Weekend 2023 showcase ‘High Impact’, David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore continue to explore classic garment shapes, while reworking proportions to create breezy and easy-fit silhouettes that their label Abraham & Thakore is synonymous with.
“Speaking of the significance and future of men’s fashion week, David Abraham tells First Look, “Men’s fashion weeks have a very bright future as fashionable menswear is a rapidly growing market for younger customers. Young men are breaking out of old conventions and seeking new creative ways to define their identities through fashion.”
DAVID ABRAHAM
