Here’s to the velvet verse of 2023 as the luxuriant fabric continues to redefine elegance and spell sensual chic in versatile avatars. We take a look at its modish history and how several design innovations have ensured that this forever fabric remains relevant.
A season-agnostic staple that can be revived again and again for multiple occasions, velvet oozes glamour like no other. From festive ensembles and layered separates to spring accessories and summer swimsuits, velvet is here to slay. It has always stood out as a classic, luxe and rich trend. And, this ultra-glam yet elegant sensibility made a glorious comeback this season.
The ’90s-heartthrob style is having a major fashion moment with celebs and influencers both rocking the trend. However, it’s not only in the present time that the plush fabric is having its moment. This royalty-approved fashion statement has held its head high through various periods of history – right from queens’ trousseau to high streets and runways in the ’80s and the ’90s.
A material as versatile as velvet is extremely popular for its texture and shine. Embroidered velvet ensembles have always been considered exquisite. It is time to make some space for this lush and plush fabric in your closet this year. Whether you are on a night out around the town or all set to attend a business meet, trust velvet to take you from the club to the boardroom with ease.
Wearing velvet is all about enjoying the spotlight with utmost elegance. The Fall/ Winter 2021 runways were awash with the winter-favourite fabric. With global luxury powerhouses such as Chanel, Emporio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana making a case for the timeless texture, it’s no surprise that velvet is now populating the street-style scene as well.
The Fall season may start in September but the season peaks in December; the month of celebration and so fall trends every year have a rather indulgent feel to them. Always look for silk velvets as these have optimal lustre and shine. You can update your little black dress by taking the velvet route as Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy did as part of his Fall runway show. Be it Valentino or Vetements, velvet was the fabric of choice last year, and the trend forecasts vouch for its enduring popularity. And, if you really want to take this trend seriously, opt for power dressing with a velvet pantsuit. From Bottega Veneta’s easy elegant tuxedo in purple to Roberto Cavalli’s full regal take on this in exciting palettes and styles, let’s pay a tribute to the late American music legend, Prince, this winter.
Fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani says no fabric can replace velvet when it comes to the royal look although owing to its cost and thickness, raw silk, dupion silk and lightweight suedes have gradually taken over the space. However, it has made a comeback because of its modern reinterpretations. “Velvet disappeared from the runway because of its thickness. However, its sheen and texture are irreplaceable,” Tahiliani has been quoted variously. “Techniques like velvet appliqué, using velvet sequins or cut-outs in
embellishments, velvet tapes and braids, printed velvet yokes and borders are some of the twists that velvet has seen this year along with quilting the velvets.”
Indian designers are reviving their nostalgia to bring back a myriad of yesteryear’s trends back in fashion with velvet. They are reinventing the fabric in a contemporary manner. Velvet has been augmented with surface ornamentation of zardozi and zari embroidery, which has been vividly used
either in the entire outfit or in the form of embellished borders or formations at hemlines in the form of ruffled ends. A plain velvet dupatta is also an outfit-enhancing style trope.
Well-known designer Anju Modi’s ‘Damayanti’ collection presented at Lakme Fashion Week was a poetic showcase that recreated nostalgic romance on the ramp. The dramatic showstopper outfit with a black/gold draped dhoti, maroon bralette, topped with a black, velvet, embroidered bolero and a royal purple dupatta with gold motifs was magical.
Designers such as Manish Malhotra, Tahiliani and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have added their creativity to refine traditional outfits with their exquisite lines and cuts. Manish Malhotra’s iconic and eye-catching Persian-inspired collection gave a vision of royalty at the Couture Week in 2016. It displayed dark tones of blue and maroon that went on to become the bestseller that season.
The key is to combine this rather heavy fabric with lightweight ones like silk or satin for a flawless result. Do not be afraid to experiment with colours. Make friends with this lush fabric and be the centre of attention wherever you go. Whether it’s a blazer, tuxedo, dress, jumpsuit, shoes, or coats, velvet is deemed to grab eyeballs. To cut a long story short, you can wear velvet with almost anything. Rohit Bal went on to design an heirloom-worthy kurta customised in silk velvet primped with delicate embroidery all over. It was teamed with a churidar and a dupatta.
A lot of credit to bring out velvet as a style statement goes to Sabyasachi Mukherjee for his ‘Firdaus’ collection. It blossomed into a love affair between brides-to-be and velvet. The collection flourished in reds and olive greens and used pastel hues, floral prints as well as zari embroidery. The designer also paired embroidered velvet lehengas and dupattas with plain blouses.
Designers are also working hard on its wearability quotient. Tahiliani says velvet used to be a thick fabric, not entirely appropriate for Indian summers, and was expensive. But that has changed. “Velvet can be worn throughout the year now due to trend-oriented designs that make the outfits look attractive and not gaudy,” Tahiliani has been quoted in the media.
There is a huge difference in the acceptance of velvet today. It is presented in more colour options as well as in the form of practical and experimental garments. It is now becoming a part of everyday outfits like dresses, coats and tops. Maroon and black are no longer the only colours that define velvet – blue, green, beige and gold are taking the runway by storm.
Velvet has become ubiquitous this season for a number of reasons, the first being its warm and cosy feel, a kind of tactile and warm sensation in a world that seems to grow more tumultuous and uncertain every day. This is also a nod to the post-pandemic sentiments of nostalgia in fashion where there is a definitive movement away from the minimalist look of the past few years. Consequently, it has embraced warmer and nostalgic looks like longer dresses and shawls.
