Brocade is a self-patterned decorative fabric made using the technique of jacquard weaving —imprinting a tightly woven design on top of the background weave. The embossed texture of brocade has a rich look and feel to it; historically known to be adorned by wealthy people of society. Brocade crafted ensembles signified the nobility and power in empires of India, Byzantium, China, Italy, Japan, Korea and South Africa. The fabric has played a vital role in creating Indian bridal ensembles for decades. Parallelly, the brocade saris have enjoyed cult status for their imperial and timeless charm.
In the present age, this antiquated fabric has become indispensable in creating bold and contemporary silhouettes. Here’s how designers are exploring brocade with a diverse design vocabulary.
Kshitij Jalori glorifies the zari woven fabric with universal jackets. The fusion of clean-cut silhouettes with the busy pattern promises a trendsetting take on layering; one that can never go unnoticed in the crowd. Similarly, Bodhi Tree highlights the comfort quotient of the fabric with a laidback layering piece.
Megha Garg customises the motif-rich fabric in silhouettes to brace the evening affairs. The tactile fabric works wonders with structured silhouettes and origami drapes, looking undeniably chic and remarkably easy to live in. Parallelly, Manish Arora approaches the blue-chip fabric with a sophisticated mindset, tailoring a power suit in top-to-toe brocade fabric, offering a perfect party number. Nikita Gujral too explores its utilitarian quality with a pair of relaxed-fit pants that can be easily dressed up or pared down, from dinner to celebrations.
In spite of its trending modern makeover, there are enough reasons to keep brocade in rotation in your Indian wardrobe. Brocade lehengas have evolved from period drama costumes and the bridal repertoire. Ritu Kumar imagines her signature brocade blouse with an artsy neckline and ruffled sleeves for added drama. In the same vein, Breathe by Akanksha offers a brocade bustier for a covetable style statement.
Payal Jain‘s fuschia kurta is reminiscent of rich and rooted charm yet the tailoring promises ease and elegance from dawn to dusk festivities. On the other hand, Nisha Ajmera lends an artisanal touch to brocade with fluid drapes and ruffle accents.
Studying that the brocade fabric is anything but demure, designers globally have reinterpreted it to create cutting edge designs. The rich accents of the metallic threads lend a look-at-me update to any silhouette.
Discover the bold take on brocade at Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop.