From ancient armour to the most powerful fashion accessory, here’s how breastplates delicately balance feminine vulnerability and feminine power.
Once a symbol of protection and armour on the battlefield to now a modern-day sartorial statement, the breastplates’ elevated status in haute couture is taking the fashion realm by storm. Fashion’s most arresting feminist trend, the breastplate, never ceases to stir conversation.
A symbol of strength and valour, breastplates were worn as protective armour by Greeks, Romans, and knights of medieval Europe. Designed to imitate the human physique, breastplates were commonly made from hammered bronze plates, boiled leather, iron, or steel. Initially introduced by the Grecian army in the 5th century, the cuirass found new life in the 19th century when it caught the attention of fashion designers in that era.
The Fashion Upgrade
While it’s been making waves in recent years, this unique art piece has been reinterpreted time and time again throughout the industry’s long history by fashion’s most prolific creatives. Initially a military essential, breastplates have transcended their historical origins and transformed from mediaeval armour to red-carpet statements.
Throughout the 1880s, what was known as a ‘cuirass bodice’ – a form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice resembling a piece of armour – began to appear in magazines, cementing its status as a sartorial staple for years to come. The late 20th and 21st centuries saw designers incorporating breastplates and metallic corsets in their collections, giving rise to a new era of avant-garde fashion.
In 1969, esteemed designer Yves Saint Laurent invited sculptor Claude Lalanne to mould replicas of model Veruschka von Lehndorff’s bust and torso for the label’s fall/winter collection “Empreintes,” resulting in two groundbreaking pieces that gave the warfare shield a haute couture upgrade. In the 80s, Japanese designer Issey Miyake created his own futuristic rendition, famously worn by Grace Jones. Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, Hussein Chalayan, Schiaparelli, and Jean Paul Gaultier were some of the industry’s creative masterminds who experimented with body moulding over the years.
Back home, Suneet Varma pioneered the concept of breastplates in 1992, inspired by Sandro Botticelli’s painting. More recently, couturier Gaurav Gupta’s Aarohanam collection saw intricately moulded breastplates in gold that reiterated his strength in sculpted artistry. Another label adding a unique layer to the ever evolving Indian fashionscape is MISHO, which has been making waves for its unabashed fusion of architecture and jewellery through sculptured breastplates that look and feel like second skin.
Beyond the Runway
Leaving their warfare past behind, today, breastplates have made a fashionable comeback with a flavour of feminine finesse. Finding new life as a boundary-pushing accessory, the artful armour has quickly turned into a top pick among A-list celebrities.
One of the most talked-about breastplate looks was at the 2020 Critics’ Choice Awards when actor Zendaya wore Tom Ford’s moulded, metallic asymmetrical breastplate – paying homage to the vintage pieces crafted by Issey Miyake and Yves Saint Laurent. Global music icon Beyoncé was also seen arming herself with chromatic breastplates from high-fashion brands like Loewe and Mugler throughout the Renaissance World Tour. At the 74th Cannes Film Festival, Bella Hadid stunned in an avant-garde gown from Schiaparelli’s fall/winter collection, paired with a gilded brass necklace in the shape of trompe l’oeil lungs that replicated a breastplate.
The power-infused trend’s hold extends beyond the West; Bollywood stars have also embraced the armour, with Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, Ayesha Kanga, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, and Bhumi Pednekar adorning the form-fitting favourite on several occasions.
Synonymous with power dressing, breastplates transcend gender norms and cultural boundaries. As a trend that challenges traditional notions of femininity, this empowering accessory injects a much-needed dose of power into the world of fashion. Once a layer of defence, today, the breastplate is a statement piece that is both edgy and fierce.
