Remembering Rohit Bal, a maestro who lived by his own rules,
danced to his own tunes, and stitched dreams into reality.
In the annals of Indian fashion, few names command as much reverence as Rohit Bal. Known fondly as Gudda, he was not merely a designer but a storyteller, weaving tales of romance, heritage, and extravagance through every stitch. On November 1, 2024, Bal took his final bow, leaving behind a legacy as timeless as the peacock and lotus motifs he so loved. His departure has left an undeniable void in the fashion industry, reminding us of his unmatched virtuosity and the spirit that defined him.
Born in 1961 amidst the serene beauty of Kashmir, Bal’s journey was as textured and vibrant as the landscapes of his homeland. From the saffron-kissed valleys of Srinagar, he grew into an artisan whose work embodied the cultural riches of India. After honing his skills at his brother’s textile export house, he launched his eponymous label in 1990, marking the beginning of a career that would marry tradition with innovation.
Bal’s pieces became synonymous with grandeur and drama. His affinity for the sublime – whether the voluminous mulmul he so deftly manipulated or the rich velvet that defined many of his masterpieces – transformed Indian couture into a celebration of cultural roots. Hollywood stars such as Uma Thurman, Pamela Anderson, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Ivanka Trump, Elizabeth Hurley, and even Christian Louboutin embraced his creations. At the same time, Bollywood’s elite turned his runways into a spectacle of glamour. Among them, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja held a special place as his favourite muse, a fact both he and she celebrated openly. Kapoor often seen in Bal’s creations, from her 2015 couture ensemble to her 2024 Kaaynaat showstopper moment, reflecting their shared admiration for timeless beauty and craftsmanship. Upon his passing, Kapoor paid a heartfelt tribute, combining archival pieces from 2015, 2016, and 2024, and poignantly declaring, “Dear Gudda, always your biggest fan.” Yet, beneath the glitz, Bal remained deeply connected to the karigars – the craftsmen whose hands brought his visions to life.
From the outset, Bal’s designs were a love letter to Indian craftsmanship, combining intricate handwork with contemporary silhouettes to create a vocabulary of style that resonated globally.
Rohit Bal was not only a fine couturier but also an innovator. His prêt line, Balance, was a pioneering move, bridging the gap between luxury and accessibility in Indian fashion. He dared to experiment with silhouettes, boldly showcasing skirts and long jackets on men, challenging conventional notions and redefining masculinity. His shows, often staged in dramatic settings like Delhi’s Qutub Minar, were more than fashion – they were theatre. Each was a tableau of emotion, drama, and storytelling, encapsulating the magic of his boundless creativity.
At the heart of Bal’s genius was his ability to balance tradition with modernity. In the 1990s, as India awakened to the possibilities of contemporary fashion, he stood at the forefront, introducing the concept of “Indian Modern.” Motifs like the lotus and the peacock, steeped in cultural symbolism, became emblems of his brand. Even as the world moved toward sustainability, Bal was ahead of his time, collaborating with organisations like Khadi Gram Udyog, highlighting his commitment to ethical fashion long before it became a global conversation.
His commitment to his craft extended beyond his own creations. As a mentor, Rohit Bal nurtured an entire generation of designers, including Rocky S, Siddhartha Tytler, Arjan Dugal, Chandrima, Sushant Abrol from Countrymade, Sahil Kochhar, and many many more. To his protégés, he was not just an icon but a friend, guiding them with his wit, wisdom, and, above all, his passion. This spirit of mentorship found its most profound expression in 2007, when Bal orchestrated an unforgettable tribute to his mentor and India’s first celebrated designer, Rohit Khosla.
Titled as much a celebration as a tribute, the show brought together the titans of Indian fashion – designers and models alike – on one stage in what The Times of India described as “never-before-seen solidarity”. For Bal, this was more than a tribute; it was a deeply personal homage to the man who had inspired his journey. It was an evening that celebrated not just Rohit Khosla but also the collective spirit of Indian fashion, with Bal as its beating heart.
Yet, beneath the larger-than-life persona was a man whose roots remained firmly planted in the valleys of Kashmir. His Kashmiri heritage informed much of his work with an unmistakable identity. Roses, a recurring motif in his collections, symbolised his philosophy: beauty rooted in resilience, and fragility balanced with strength. These dualities defined both his creations and his character. His joie de vivre was infectious. Even as the media christened him “fashion’s bad boy,” Bal wore the label with a wink, never letting the flamboyance overshadow the authenticity that grounded him.
The FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2024 bore witness to this authenticity. Despite battling illness, he brought forth an unforgettable swan song, the Kaaynaat: A Bloom in the Universe collection – a poetic ode to life and eternity. The collection, drenched in intricate embroidery and his signature flair for drama, was a fitting crescendo to his illustrious career. As Ananya Panday closed the show in a black lehenga adorned with crimson roses, Bal himself took to the ramp for one final bow. With tears in their eyes, the audience rose to cheer the man who had not only dressed them in his fantasies but had also lived his own with courage and flair.
As Bal danced on the runway, with a single rose in hand, it was clear that his spirit was indomitable. That moment wasn’t just a closing – it was a celebration of a life well-lived, a journey well-travelled, and a legacy well-earned. As the curtains fell, it was clear that Rohit Bal’s story was far from over. His work continues to inspire, his spirit immortalised in every motif, and every thread that carries his touch.
Farewell, Gudda. The world may have lost you, but your prowess will forever bloom with éclat.
