Gender fluid fashion, gender-neutral, unisex, non-binary, and androgynous are a few buzzwords emerging strongly around the globe. Fashion has always been a reflection of the contours of societal changes. While the concept might be dubbed as a new and fast-approaching change, India has had a history of gender neutral clothing. Gender fluid fashion has always existed through non-conforming people who have expressed themselves through clothing throughout history.
From simple draped clothing adorned by men and women centuries ago to the introduction of silhouettes like flared Kurtas and Angrakhaas, along with jewellery, Indian apparel has always had a tinge of gender fluidity. The queer community’s decades of contribution and advocacy have also played a substantial role in getting gender fluid fashion to mainstream markets worldwide.
With a shift in the conversation around masculinity, gender conformity in fashion is fast becoming a thing of the past. As more and more young men steer away from the archaic notions and norms of traditional masculinity, the rules of dressing are getting less definitive now more than ever.
While prominent brands worldwide like Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Gucci and Saint Laurent have hopped on the gender-neutral parade, it’s time we turn to homegrown labels that need to be on everyone’s radar.
DASH AND DOT
Founded in 2020 in the midst of a pandemic, Dash and Dot’s designs challenge preconceived notions surrounding fashion. Pushing boundaries with his creations, designer Ashray Gujral aims to craft unique silhouettes punctuated with gender-agnostic elements. Renowned for redefining menswear, the label weaves sustainability into their ensembles.
AMIT AGGARWAL
Celebrated couturier Amit Aggarwal is known for his unique design language, articulating natural forms through ingenious silhouettes. Amalgamating experimental textiles with structural movements, the designer sculpts silhouettes that carry grandeur unlike anything else! Art and architecture come together in the leading label’s creations crafted using recycled waste.
PAYAL SINGHAL
A potpourri of over-the-top florals and free-spirited silhouettes, Payal Singhal’s collection is imbued with bohemian flamboyance. Fun and fresh with a bit of whimsical, PS Men is a playful take on conventional menswear. The label’s collection features fluid silhouettes and daring patterns, sure to put you in the spotlight.
RAHUL MISHRA
Putting hand-weaving and hand-embroidery at the heart of his designs, Rahul Mishra is renowned for his unconventional and elaborate pieces. The creative mastermind makes use of Indian techniques and modernises them. The silhouettes feature lavish embroideries, impeccable finishing and clean cuts.
S&N BY SHANTNU & NIKHIL
A bridge-to-luxury label, S&N by Shantnu and Nikhil’s design language is young, gender-fluid, and non-conforming. Juxtaposing heritage and new-age details, the label strikes a balance between folk and millennial funk through their designs. Innovative cuts and exquisite details accentuate the label’s asymmetrical Kurtas, draped Waistcoats and other styles.
ANTAR-AGNI
Ujjwal Dubey’s Antar-Agni takes a departure from normative and conventional styles. Menswear goes beyond sharply tailored suits and Sherwanis with this label. Think anti-fit and out-of-the-box clothing with a dab of heritage and nostalgia. The label offers an array of updated classics that bind parallels, such as structure versus flow and natural forms versus tailored asymmetry.
While the list on this blog might end here, the menswear landscape in India boasts more labels that ace gender fluid fashion, such as Jatin Malik, Rohit Bal, Bohame, Khanijo, No Grey Area, Dhruv Vaish, Amaare to name a few. As the world moves towards more inclusive and diverse fashion, we’re glad to see desi men embracing fluid styles rooted in Indian tradition.